It is the zen and ecstasy that all longboarders crave and that makes longboarding so addictive. Standing as if weightless at the very front tip of the board defies gravity, and yet is achieved by gravity because it works only by compensating the weight of water rushing over the back of the board so that you glide as if on a seesaw at the point of balance.

You travel by foot, cross-stepping, to reach the nose, curling five toes over the front, and then maybe the other five, so ten toes embrace the tip and your heart leaps with stoke. This is the doorway to the soul of longboarding. Perched in the sweet spot time and space seem to collapse into a moment’s calm. Round off with a soul arch and the day reaches perfection.

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